Our bullets: We used the most detailed pictures we could take so you can see the details you want to see. Also all the ordering information is right there. The item # is the first thing in the description, and to the right of that we include the manufacturers mold # for your reference only. Underneath the bullet pictures are the price/quantity ($10/100), next is the alloy(s) available which are MA=match alloy and SA=soft alloy. The last numbers are the sizing dies available for that bullet. 


Loading cast bullets: Loading cast bullets is a lot different than loading jacketed bullets. It is not the purpose of this site to teach cast loading techniques as there are a lot of sources available for that. See the loading manual section below for my recommended sources. I am willing to help any reloader any way I can provided they educate themselves to the basics first.   


Loading manuals: I suggest you get as many as you can afford. I strongly suggest, almost insist you get the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. If you can find a third edition that is the one I use the most.


Loading dies and such: What ever you like is fine, they all work about the same except for belling dies. For belling case mouths I prefer the Lyman "M" die. over the cone type. For crimping I'm really starting to like the Lee factory crimp die for bottle neck rifle and taper crimp for pistol. I always use the crimp dies as an extra step on ALL rounds. I suggest you not use the seater die to crimp while seating. One more thought, don't think you have to crimp, only crimp if there is a reason to, like to prevent bullet movement and once you have found a good load you can use crimping to tweak it a little. Always crimp any round that's loaded into a tube magazine and never use a pointed cast bullet in tube magazine's. If you are not crimping, always make sure you have enough case tension to prevent bullet movement.


Pistol powders: The ones I use the most are, Bullseye, all the Dots, HP-38, 700 & 800X, Unique. If I could only have two it would be Bullseye and Unique. I'm sure the other makes are fine, but they are hard to get around here.


Rifle powders: Here again, based on whats available, 2400, SR4759(discontinued) are my two favorites. Others I like are Accurate 5744, IMR4198, IMR4227 and for squib and gallery loads I like Unique, Green Dot, Red Dot, and Bullseye.


I'm not handing out load data here, just trying to point you in the right direction. And speaking of load data, it's not that I mind giving it out, but I think all reloaders need to learn to use a load manual. There is always something new to learn in each different manual I have. I use Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook the most but Speer, Sierra and Hornady have good info on general reloading that cross over to cast. The powder mfg. also have load data more-so than I would call a manual which is always helpful. One last resource is a web forum called "" . Join the forum and start reading, you will learn more in one week of reading than you thought possible. My thanks to all the members there.


Load book: A good 3 ring binder with dividers for each gun you load for. I used a 8.5x11 legal pad and ruled the columns I wanted and kept it as a master and just copy a blank sheet as I need them.  Column headings are: date, bullet #, bullet size, case/primer, OAL, crimp, powder/charge, notes. All self explanatory except on the case column I use "fls" or "ns" beside the case brand for full length size or neck sized. On the crimp column I measure the crimp and record this.


Measuring tools: A must have for anyone reloading for accuracy is a micrometer. Also a quality dial caliper for longer measurements such as case length and overall length.


Presses: Don't want to start any fights, so I'll keep it at what I use. If I want the round to be the absolute best it can be I use a single stage press. All my other loading is done on a Lyman turret and I have a turret for each caliber. I'm not knocking anyone else's choice as I have seen accurate ammo loaded on every kind of press there is. If I were to go buy a new press right now I would look at the Redding turret. I don't use a progressive because I don't load a high volume of one load, and if I did I would use one. Most of my loading I'm always testing something or other and the turret's give me a lot of flexibility the other types don't. 


Priming tools: Here again, no fights but I use an RCBS bench mounted automatic primer. It's the one with the tubes not the APS strips. Why, because its quick to change from large to small primers and changing caliber's. I have used all the hand primers and don't care for them. Making sure the primer is seated all the way in the pocket is very important and the RCBS lets you feel whats happening very well.